Fashion

Selasa, 11 Januari 2011
  TECHNO-FOLK





Context

The city and the urban world are sources of inspiration, with sculptural forms between the raw and the ultra-technical and where color is highly present. An awareness of the world born of the desire to save endangered resources and folklore. A nomad, tribal spirit, also inspired by urban landscapes. A cultural mix where natural instinct is reconciled with technological progress.

Colours
The bright shades of traditional embroideries: flame red, bright pink, turquoise, fuchsia or purple-blue. In contrast are a variety of more neutral beige accents inspired by the steppe and the desert.

Beauty
A bright range of colors is associated with a second palette composed of pale or dark neutrals, evoking the nomads’ tents. Make-up is happy, colorful, fresh and joyous, almost naïve.

Materials
Rustic wools: tweeds, bouclés, floating or ripped-out yarns, granular hands
Thick, felted, boiled broadcloths
Ornamental or folkloric motifs in the form of Jacquards and damasks
Technical, waterproofed fabrics in a windbreaker spirit, occasionally enlivened by handcrafted trims or very soft lining (wool or cotton)
Folk trims and appliqués: pom-poms, beads, feathers, passementerie, embroideries

Women’s Key Products
Wide oversize pants with dropped crutch
Uncluttered jackets and fitted trench coats
Miniskirts with gathered panels, either solid or printed
Graphic knits with big cowl necks, asymmetric knits
Folk blouses and smocks, tunics, ornamented with braids, plastrons, fringes, embroidery
Wadded puffer jackets, maxi collars, tonic colors
Jodhpurs worn loose in jersey or dyed denim, flashy colors

Men’s Key Products
A-line volume lumber jacket, mixed skins
Multi-pocket overalls
Fur-lined parkas and puffer jackets + rib trims
Windbreakers in light cotton/nylon
Ethnic track pants, embroidered and printed
Military jackets: braids, medals, fantasy decorations
Undershirts with added value: plastrons, embroideries, prints

Accessories
Women: tabbed, ergonomical sandals, fur collars, zipped platform soles, high pleated boots in stretch patent leather + lacquered heel, long gloves with graphic cuts
Men: ankle-high runners with folk-printed fabric, runners and bags with heat-set printed ethnic motifs, caps in big two-tone checks







DANDY MANIFESTO

Context

The world of books, writing, manuscripts, calligraphy and coded language. A theme combining the somewhat stuffy elegance of the Oscar Wilde style dandies with a bohemian, more modern, poetic, “artist” spirit. An androgynous silhouette: chic and decadent for a look both outdated yet contemporary.

Colours
A dark, shady range in a variety of inky tones. Touches of color electrify the palette. And to tone it all down: white and taupy or grayed shades.

Beauty
Experimental, audacious make-up borrows from Dadaism, typography and photo-montage.

Two palettes co-exist: the first explores paper, whiteness and material effects, while the second, darker range is inspired by ink, pencil, charcoal and graphite.

Materials
Men’s supple, ultra-fine worsted wools in the spirit of Savile Row tailors
Stripes used with subtlety: discreet banker’s stripes, stippled chalk stripes, tuxedo pants emphasized with a band of tone-on-tone satin. A graphic spirit borrowed from the wide stripes of club ties or men’s satin waistcoats
Fluid fabrics, heavily drapey silks: crêpe, crêpe georgette, chiffon
Delicate lace and embroidered tulles
Jacquards and tapestry-style weaves are inspired by the elaborate covers of old books

Key Women’s’ Products
Redingote-coats. Short 2-in-1 jackets (jacket + waistcoat). Little men’s waistcoats.
Cigarette-legged pants and darted cropped pants.
Striped shirts or with plastrons, shirttails, with scarves and lavallières.
Cardigans. With tailored collars, belted, Jacquard
Oversized jackets
Skintight miniskirts in stretch cotton with rock details: zips, buckles, insets
Lace tops and dresses.

Key Men’s Products
Tuxedo spirit, fitted cuts, in a sportswear mood
Short coats in little English checks, basket weaves, tweed. Duffle-coats
Historical military coats: engraved ball buttons and double-breasted
Prints: checks and flowers for hunting jackets, waistcoats and tapered pants.
Riding jackets, short, buttoned and fitted.

Accessories
Women: lambskin gloves. Textile shoes, decorated pumps, with patent or gimped and perforated toes. Material mixes for bags: skins, crocodile, and natural leather
Men: caps inspired by riding hats. Tartan ties. Military and riding boots. Checked Borsalinos. 

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